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Why us?
➕ Convenience: We take out the hassle. No need to run a water sample to your closest pool store. No risk of chlorine spilling in your truck. No DIY YouTube videos.
➕ Knowledge:Access to our 30+ years of pool knowledge. Have a question? ASK! If we don’t have the answer, we know someone who does! Over the last 30+ years, we’ve built relationships with industry leaders who are always there if we need them. Much like we are there for you!
➕ Consistency:Can you put a price tag on your peace of mind and the safety of your family? Consistent communication, water chemistry and your health and safety are at the forefront of what we do. We will be there every week, like clockwork. We have built our brand on communication and INTEGRITY. We take our time and service each of our pools as if it was our own, no more 6 minute pool service. We want your pool ready as if our children would be swimming in them. Hence our “Welcome to the Family!” slogan. We mean it!
➕ ROI (Return on Investment):For a standard size residential pool, the maintenance cost ranges from roughly $50-$150 for chemicals alone. Not to mention the repair costs and potential damage to other components . Our FULL SERVICE rate starts at $120 per month and you don’t have to do any of the work.
And for all of you DIY-ers, don’t worry, we have your back, too! We offer a “Chemical Only” option, starting at $85/mo. 🔹Chemicals balanced weekly🔹Written chemical report - what your numbers are, what was added, times in/out, any concerns. 🔹Basic chemicals included🔹Discounts for First Responders, Active Military, Realtors and multiple signed pool agreements 🔹Pool School starting at $100
What should my numbers be?
🔹pH: 7.4-7.6
🔹Total Alkalinity: 80-120 ppm
🔹Calcium Hardness 175-225 ppm
for plaster pools, 150-200 ppm for other pools
🔹Cyanuric Acid (CYA): 30-50 ppm
🔹Salt: This depends on the salt system. Be sure to refer back to your equipment manual.
🔹Chlorine: 1-3 ppm Other factors: Combined chlorine levels should also be monitored. High combined chlorine indicates a need to "shock" the pool.
My numbers are wrong..
Low pH (acidic water):🔹Corrodes and etches surfaces.🔹Aggressive water will leach calcium from plaster, grout, and tile, causing etching and pitting.🔹Corrodes metal components🔹Damages ladders, light fixtures, pumps, and heaters.
High pH (alkaline water):🔹Forms scale and deposits.🔹Can lead to calcium carbonate: creating a rough, chalky, white buildup on surfaces and equipment.🔹Reduces sanitizer effectiveness.🔹Reduces chlorine's ability to sanitize, which can lead to algae growth on surfaces.
Low calcium hardness:🔹Corrodes and etches surfaces.🔹Water that is too soft will "eat" the calcium from plaster and grout, causing etching and pitting.🔹Damages metal fittings.🔹Damages metal components like salt cells, heaters, and ladders.
High calcium hardness:🔹Forms scale and deposits.🔹Causes white, chalky buildup on pool surfaces, tile, and equipment, and can cloud the water.
High chloramines:🔹Corrodes metal components.🔹Forms on metal parts of the pool, leading to corrosion over time.
🔹NOTE🔹
Adjust chemicals gradually: Make small chemical adjustments to avoid sudden swings that can harm the pool's surface.
Be sure to consider your pool type and its warranty requirements:Concrete and plaster pools need higher calcium hardness to prevent etching, while vinyl and fiberglass pools need a balance to avoid chalking and degradation.
Surface Stains
Having a better pool service can greatly reduce the risk of surface staining!
Tips to prevent pool stains:🔹Maintain balanced water chemistry.
🔹Regularly test and adjust pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness levels. 🔹Minimize organic debris.
🔹Skim and vacuum your pool frequently, especially after storms or when debris is present. 🔹Use a metal sequestrant.
🔹 If your water source is known to contain metals, use a preventative metal sequestrant product. 🔹Protect pool equipment.
Address any corrosion issues with metal equipment, like ladders or heaters, promptly.
What about my pool surface?
🔹Knowing your pool surface type and warranty requirements will help you preserve your pool surface and prevent premature plaster failure..
🔹The majority of pools in Florida have 2 surface types, Pebble or Quartz and each have their own maintenance needs. Pebble is more durable and long-lasting but costs more upfront, while quartz is a more affordable option with a smoother texture and a slightly shorter lifespan.
🔹Pebble🔹 🔹Higher durability and longevity, with a lifespan of up to 20 years or more. 🔹Textured feel from small stones, which can be rougher for some swimmers but provides better slip resistance. 🔹Offers a natural, organic, and deep look with rich colors. 🔹Higher initial cost, though it may save money long-term due to its durability.
🔹Quartz🔹🔹Durable but has a shorter lifespan than pebble, typically lasting 10-15 years. 🔹Smoother surface compared to pebble finishes. 🔹Provides a more uniform and polished look with vibrant color options. 🔹More affordable upfront cost.
🔹Links to Manufacturers warranty🔹https://clindustries.com/warranty-parameters/
https://pebbletec.com/customer-support/warranty-information/
How does my pool system work?
🔹Starting with the pool pump - Water from the skimmers and drains are drawn by the pool pump, pushing the water through a filter (i.e., sand, cartridge, or DE) to remove impurities and debris.
🔹The filtered water then passes through the heater, if you have one.
🔹Most pool systems have an inline chlorination system, be it a salt cell or a tablet feeder. If you do, you should see it plumbed in AFTER your heating option.
🔹Once the water is filtered (and potentially warmed and chlorinated), it’s then pushed back into the pool via the return jets. The return jets should be facing the same direction, creating a circular flow around the perimeter of the pool. This helps to stir the entire body of water, including the bottom, forcing the dirt and debris back to the main drain/skimmer to repeat the process.
Why is it important for my pool to run / circulate?
🔹Improved Water Quality:
It ensures chemicals, like chlorine, are evenly distributed, keeping the water sanitized.
🔹Prevention of Algae and Bacteria: Continuous flow prevents stagnant areas where algae, bacteria, and other organisms can accumulate.
🔹Debris Removal: It directs surface debris towards the skimmers and debris from the bottom towards the drains for removal.
Do I have a leak?
🔹If a pool without water features is losing more than 1/4 inch of water per day on average, it's considered a sign of a leak.
Why is my pool losing water?
Factors that influence evaporation:
🔹Higher winds increase evaporation.
🔹Hot, dry air causes more evaporation.
🔹Waterfalls, fountains, and other features increase the surface area exposed to air, leading to higher evaporation.
🔹Using a heater increases the water's temperature and thus the evaporation rate.
🔹Using a cover, especially at night, significantly reduces evaporation.
How much water should my pool be losing?
In Florida, normal pool water evaporation is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch per day in summer and can be less, but still significant, in cooler months.
Factors like wind, temperature, humidity, water features, and pool covers greatly influence this rate.
An evaporation rate exceeding 1/4" per day, over several days (especially with no water features), could indicate a leak.
🔹Typical daily and weekly evaporation rates in Florida🔹
🔹Summer🔹
Expect about 1/4 to 1/2 inch per day, depending on factors like heat and wind.
🔹Winter🔹
Evaporation rates are lower, but still occur.
Evaporation vs. Water Loss
🔹Bucket Test🔹
To determine if you have a leak or just evaporation, place a bucket of water on one of your pool's steps. Mark the water level on both the inside and outside of the bucket. After 24 hours, compare the two levels. If the water level in the pool has dropped more than the water level in the bucket, you likely have a leak.
🔹Direct Measurement🔹
You can also directly measure evaporation by marking the pool's water level and checking it again after seven days. Divide the drop in inches by seven to get your daily rate.
🔹Dye Test🔹
Turn off your pool equipment. Use a dark colored dye, like Taylor Test Kit's Reagent #5 (the red one), to go around the "obvious" leak points. These points would be things like: light(s), skimmer box, main drain, jets, pop-ups (if applicable), vacuum port (if applicable), handrails (if secured IN the pool shell), water line tiles, accent tiles and any other object that penetrates the pool shell. If you squeeze a few drops of your reagent into the water around these areas and notice the red dye trails into the shell, it's likely you've found a water leak.
While there are diy tests and repair kits, some leaks can be hard to find.A leaking pool can be costly, especially the longer it goes unfixed.
If you suspect that your pool does in fact have a leak, call a professional pool person.
Traditional chlorine or Salt?
ools vs. saltwater pools and which one is recommended. Let’s chat! 💦Saltwater pools:How they work: A chlorine generator is added to the plumbing of the existing filtration system and converts dissolved salt into chlorine, which is continuously produced. 💧Pros: * Softer, silkier water that is gentler on skin and eyes. * Less maintenance involving chemical handling, as chlorine is generated automatically. * Lower ongoing costs for chemicals, though there are costs for the generator and its replacement parts. 💧Cons: * Higher initial installation cost. * Salt can be corrosive, potentially damaging metal fixtures, heaters, and concrete over time if not properly maintained and sealed. * Salt cells need to be replaced every few years. * Salt cells need to be cleaned frequently. This is done by using acid, which could cause potential risks for those who don’t know how to properly do this. 💦Traditional chlorine pools:* How they work: Chlorine in the form of tablets, granules, or liquid is added manually to the pool water. Chlorine tablets often times are added to a chlorine tower, which is plumbed into your equipment, or put in a chlorine “floater” which floats around your pool. However, some folks choose to use only liquid and/or granules that are added straight into the pool water. 💧Pros: * Lower initial investment. * Simpler to start up as there is no generator to install. 💧Cons: * Requires more frequent handling and storage of harsh chlorine chemicals. * If you don’t have a pool service or chemical delivery, the transporting of chemicals can be dangerous and costly. * Can cause a "chlorine smell" and be harsher on skin and eyes. * Higher ongoing costs for buying chlorine chemicals. ✨Which is right for you? * Choose a saltwater pool if you want a softer swimming experience, less frequent chemical handling, and are willing to accept a higher upfront cost. * Choose a traditional chlorine pool if your priority is a lower initial investment and you are comfortable with the ongoing cost and physical effort of manually adding and storing chlorine chemicals. ❗️If you’re looking to covert from traditional chlorine to salt, we can help! Have more questions? Give us a call.
What's better? Test Strips or a Test Kit?
Pool test strips are quick, easy, and cheap for regular checks. However, liquid test kits are more accurate and can detect a wider range of chemical levels. While strips are convenient for routine maintenance, a liquid kit is better for precise adjustments and troubleshooting issues like cloudy water.
Pros and Cons of Test Strips
🔹Pros🔹🔹Dip the strip well below the surface of the water, wait a few seconds, and compare the colors to the bottle.
🔹Good for quick, frequent testing
🔹Cheaper to purchase than liquid test kits.
🔹Cons🔹🔹Readings can be subjective and harder to interpret, especially for alkalinity and pH.
🔹Strips can degrade over time, leading to inconsistent readings.
🔹Strips are single use products and often are discarded inappropriately.
🔹Conclusion🔹Test strips should be used for a general idea of about where your chemistry is. For the do-it-yourself pool owner, using test strips for daily testing to get a general idea of your pool's chemical balance is fine. However, you should not rely on the strips alone and should still have your pool water tested professionally once a week.
Pros and Cons of a Test Kit?
🔹Pros🔹🔹Provides more precise measurements and can detect a wider range of chemical levels.
🔹More reliable for identifying and fixing problems like cloudy water.
🔹Cons🔹🔹 Require more steps, like collecting a water sample, adding specific drops, and comparing colors.
🔹 Initial cost is higher than test strips. 🔹Conclusion🔹 If you hire a pool professional, they should be utilizing a variation of a pool chemical test kit; there are many brands on the market. If you choose to do this yourself, a test kit will eliminate the need to travel to a local pool store each week and provide to you a better, more accurate reading of your pool's chemistry. Understanding and treating your water appropriately leads to a better swimming experience for you and your loved ones.
🔹 Initial cost is higher than test strips. 🔹Conclusion🔹 If you hire a pool professional, they should be utilizing a variation of a pool chemical test kit; there are many brands on the market. If you choose to do this yourself, a test kit will eliminate the need to travel to a local pool store each week and provide to you a better, more accurate reading of your pool's chemistry. Understanding and treating your water appropriately leads to a better swimming experience for you and your loved ones.
What about my sunscreen?
As responsible Floridians, we want to encourage people to protect themselves from the suns harmful rays. But, what do these sunscreens and lotions do to your pool?
😶🌫️Scum buildup: Have you ever looked at your water line tile and noticed that line of goop? That’s the scum line we’re referring to. Couple that with hair, animal hair (for those who let their four-legged friends splash, too), and miscellaneous debris, it can get pretty gross looking. The oils from these sunscreens and other lotions combine with that dirt and debris to form a greasy scum that sticks to the waterline and filter media.
🌫️Cloudy water: The presence of oil can create a slick on the surface that makes the water appear cloudy and reduces visibility. Much like what you see in rain puddles in a parking lot. Same concept, but in your pool.
🪠Clogged filters: Thick oil can clog filters, which reduces their efficiency and requires more frequent cleaning or backwashing. Depending on the amount of build up and duration it’s sat in your filter pleats, it can be hard to remove.
🦠Chemical imbalance: Oils can react with chlorine, making it less effective at sanitizing the water and potentially allowing bacteria to grow.
🧊Slippery surfaces: Oil can make surfaces like pool ladders, tiles, and the deck slippery, creating a safety hazard. How do we keep our skin protected while also keeping our pool clear?
🚿 Preventative measures: Take a quick shower before swimming to wash off excess lotions and oils, and consider using "swim-safe" or waterproof sunscreen. Some sunscreen companies are taking a proactive step, too. Places like Amazon and Walmart now carry different brands that advertise to be “Coral Reef Safe”. Many cruise lines request that their patrons use these types of sunscreen in hopes to keep the waters clean, people protected, and ocean life less polluted.
⚡️Shock the pool: For quick remedies, an oxidizing shock treatment can be used to help break down oils and other contaminants.
💦Water change:While we don’t suggest draining and refilling a 20,000 gallon pool frequently, sometimes a partial water change might be the right answer. There's an old saying in the pool business that "the solution to pollution is dilution ". This is especially the case in small, stand alone hot tubs.
🕳️ Use more of the skimmer: Using the skimmer can help remove oil slicks from the surface.
🧽Run the filter continuously: Keep the filter running and adjust returns toward the surface. Backwash and clean filters often to clean out trapped oils.
🔅Use enzyme products: Specialized pool enzymes can break down oils, greases, and other organic contaminants, preventing buildup and simplifying maintenance.
Solar Covers & Water Chemistry
🔹Best practices🔹🔹Take the cover off for at least a few hours each day to allow the water to "breathe," the chemicals to circulate, and the sunlight to perform its natural sanitizing role.
🔹It is ideal to use the cover at night to trap heat and prevent evaporation, and remove it each morning.
🔹Monitor your pool's pH and chlorine levels, as they can be affected by the cover's presence.
🔹Always take the cover off of the pool before anyone enters for safety reasons and rinse cover with fresh water to extend the life of your solar cover.
🔹Negative effects🔹🔹The cover creates a "greenhouse effect" that can cause an algae bloom, especially since the water on top of the cover isn't being sanitized by chlorine.
🔹Blocking sunlight means no natural oxidation to break down organic matter.
🔹 Water trapped on the cover can lose its chlorine.
🔹Leaving the cover on can prevent chemicals from circulating evenly.
🔹During heatwaves, the water can become uncomfortably warm, which speeds up chlorine breakdown and further promotes algae growth.
🔹The pool's filtration and circulation can be hindered, and water on the cover can become a breeding ground for bacteria.